Iseya: Classic Tokyo yakitori

These guys hold down the fort to make sure tourists and visitors do not kill Iseya's 'local pub' status.

Iseya in Kichijoji somehow manages to stand out among Tokyo's scores of anonymous and unmemorable yakitori joints. Maybe it's the quality of the grilled chicken meat and organs, but it's more than likely about the ambiance.

Iseya's park location sits directly up the stone staircase from Inokashira Park -- a perfect place to stop after a walk around the lake. While old-timers sit at the counter in a cloud of smoke, the large upstairs room may well be the quintessential Iseya experience. Nothing says 'tradition' like a floor that bounces every time someone walks across the room.

Besides yakitori, Iseya is also famous for its giant shumai. Beer is a must, but for the shochu crowd, make sure to request Iseya's special sweet plum syrup.

The original Iseya 'honten' location near the station (Gotenyama 1-2-1, Musashino-shi, tel. 0422 47 1008) has more cred, but after last year's renovation, can feel a bit clinical. The upstairs in particular is spotless, fresh-smelling and family-friendly. That's not the Iseya I know and love.